winter 2012 live blog day four
The mullet made its presence felt in a BIG way at Osman today. Not on the model's heads, but the hemlines of their skirts and dresses. Make no mistake, this is not an easy look to wear, particularly when the shirts are so full and so stiff. The collection ranged from puritanical, almost clerical with pared back pristine white separates and forbidding black overcoats - one hooded coat in particular even resembled a wimple - to sumptuous, decorative silks and brocades. The result was neither here nor there, which was a shame because Osman really does make incredibly beautiful clothes, but this collection, which felt over-thought, simply didn't do him due justice.
Where he did excel was the tailoring - slim line cropped trousers and unfussy silhouettes were a reminder of what he does best, and the crowd seemed enthusiastic as he took his bow. Even Theresa May, sat front row, had her eye on a leather dress and a coat.
It was a religious setting for Giles this season with the show taking place in front of the beautiful stain-glassed windows of Stationers' Hall, on Ave Maria Lane. To the remixed tunes of piercing choir-song the first model took to the catwalk without so much as a dimming of the light, but the audience was instantly silent as Giles brought London the dose of drama that it really needs.
Beautifully fitted tailcoats in softly woven fine silk and wool topped high collared white shirts, lending a masculine edge to what was predominantly a very feminine collection. Waists were nipped in whilst skirts were mainly full, in a range of fabrics from printed silk chiffon to brocade, to thickly woven lace. Corseted medieval-inspired dresses were formed from layers of shredded chiffon with glittering burn marks or thick black silk-satin, whilst gold jackets jordan 11 and coats with waisted frills confirmed that the spring/summer 2012 peplum is here to stay.
The final floor-length gown was a worthy finish to this haunting but beautiful show, with a feathered trim wrapping around the body matching an incredible headdress by the milliner Stephen Jones. Haunting but stunning at every turn, this was a show to send shivers down the collective spines of everyone who was present to watch a fashion week highlight.
- Alicia Waite, Telegraph Online.
Off to Lulu Kennedy's Fashion East for a window into the worlds jeremy scott shoes of three of London's brightest emerging stars - three very different designers each with their own distinctive point of view. For Central Saint Martins graduate, Maarten van der Horst it was a visit to the City. "Boardroom, but never boring," is how he describes his boy meets girl, quilted cream silk jacquard jackets worn with matching box pleat skirts, traditional shutting fabrics, and some lavish chintzy prints made isabel marant into bustiers and quilted jackets. Underwear fused with outerwear - if only city girls really could dress like this, boardroom meetings adidas wings would be so cheap nike air max much more fun.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida meanwhile, continued their DIY experiments with frayed denim, this time adding deltas mohair and distressed suede into the mix for a collection that they say is about "attitude, not hemlines".
Then for James Long it was all about Nico, Amanda Lear and Russian roofs for an exotic punk mix of great textured knitwear, biker leathers, fringing painterly prints and beading.
- Tamsin Blanchard, style director, Telegraph Magazine.
The problem with having so many major celebrities in your front row is that they have to bring their minders along for the ride. Today's Burberry show was already full to the rafters, with editors, buyers, famous faces and, well, god knows who else, sitting packed like sardines. Then, just as front row scrum subsided and the show was about to start, a charge of heavies adidas jeremy scott wings dived into the isles to take their, erm, well, unfortunately they have to squat as like this man mountain - who we think may have been with Kate Bosworth - most of them would take up at least three regular seats. Less carbs boys, it's fashion week!
Erdem's show this air max trainers afternoon marks mulberry factory shop the first time that the new White Cube gallery in Bermondsey has been turned over to fashion, but the building could have been mulberry bags sale made expressly to adidas jeremy scott show clothes.
To symphonic John Adams, Erdem's floral-garlanded models made exquisite progress down its strip-lit, glossed-concrete corridor. After a momentary lapse of full-tilt florals at the top - fitted black and purple padded dresses with interesting folds at the neckline worn under shiny-surfaced coats, peppered by only the slightest sprinkling of blossom - Erdem hit us with his fantastic trademark one-two of neatly-demure silhouettes heaped with flower upon flower upon flower. From the floral black lace overlays to the blurry 3-D-effect (without the glasses on) turquoise and yellow on silk (with blue lace, natch flowery, arms) this was a show to rival Chelsea.
Erdem's collections might not be cutting edge - but London has enough of that. This was a was a beautiful procession of dresses ill-served by the blink-and-you've missed it catwalk-format: because the more you look at an Erdem, the more there is to see. Jay Jopling should buy the entire collection, call it Contemporary Art, and make a humungous profit passing it on to the mega-collectors of Korea, the Ukraine and beyond.
Michael van der Ham earned himself the tag "Dr Frankenstein of the fashion world" with his pieced-together-from-a-gazillion-garments dresses. He could have foxed himself by having such a USP - how many times can he do the same trick without boring the pants off people? - but, thankfully for him (and us), the pants were firmly on at his show today.
As always, his schizophrenic dresses focused on various fabric and colour combinations - but they were now calmer, more muted, and altogether maturer in tone: hammer silks, boucle, silk jersey, textured organza and metallic lace in rich autumnal hues cheap mulberry bags of rust, burnt orange, jet and navy. Looks built on separates made from different materials offered a fresh spin on his theme - the metallic or boucle jumpers with organza or silk skirts were lovely.
Backstage, van der Ham said he had tripled his stockists this season; expect that figure to triple again for next.
- Phong Luu, fashion features coordinator, Daily Telegraph
The designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos have become the masters of statement dressing and have worked their way into the wardrobes of expensive women who want to look high maintenance but arty and modern at the same time. In their hands even nike air max 90 cheap a puffa jacket becomes a thing of beauty, printed with their signature hi-tech digital patterns and cut with an immaculate precision to make it look sharp rather than puffy.
Inspiration for their highly crafted dresses which are sculpted to jeremy scott adidas shoes the contours of the body came from a mish-mash of Asian subcultures - Japanese 'light trucks' which are covered in lights provided atmospheric prints, while Chinese opera mask make-up, oversized florals including irises and blood red carnations exploded across dresses with cross-cross slashed panels. For evening, there were rigorously cut full length dresses with high necks, and long sleeves covered in print, beading, and sequins - the sort of craftsmanship that takes your breath away.
- Tamsin Blanchard, style director, Telegraph Magazine
See pictures from the dinnerBefore we crack on with whatever day it is of London Fashion Week today in earnest, a word about last night's Mulberry dinner. Following its monstrously good show, the brand threw a post-collection dinner party that had it all: enormous on-the-bone-steaks (with marrowbone!), Emmanuelle Alt, Alexa Chung, a Geldof (who's recently visited Bicester isabel marant sale Village) and by-far-the-best-of-all, a five-song set by Mulberry's latest handbag-honoree, Lana del Rey. Now those who've seen LdR on SNL say she's a bee-stung-lipped fiction with no voice - but they're wrong. For backed by only a pianist and possibly jordan 11 bred a guitarist (we were isabel marant sneakers lip-transfixed), in a lovely Forties-brassiered lacy long black (Mulberry) number, LdR had us rapt us with an utterly un-vocal-shopped performance.
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